If Only the Statues Could Talk...

I've been wanting to post about this for some time now, but waiting for it all to come full circle for me. This week it did. Now I can tell the story. I've tried to keep it brief all the while giving you the background for the reason of this post.

At the end of Andrássy Ave is one of Budapest's most visited spots - Heroes' Square, one of the World Heritage sites in Europe. At least as large as a city block, the square displays the millennium monument built in 1896 to commemorate the 1,000th anniversary of the arrival of Hungarians to this area. Coming from the states, it is difficult to even fathom such a long history! (The picture below is off the internet, as well as the historical photos in this post, in order to give perspective and historical imagery. The rest are mine. The Museum of Fine Arts is to the left of the square in the photo below.)

The two semi-circles of the monument house statues of kings and heroes significant to Hungary's history. Seeing these statues up close is fascinating.

Dennis and I had the opportunity a few weeks ago to walk down Andrássy Ave to see this spectacular spot at night.

Meanwhile, just outside the city limits of Budapest, stand statues of a different nature at what is simply called Statue Park. There is no sense of glory in this park. In fact, the grounds upkeep appear to be minimal at best. Statues kept for their historical and documentary value, but possibly more than this, a reminder of the 40 grim years Hungary was ruled by a communist regime. After the fall of communism in 1989, some statues were destroyed throughout the city, others were removed to create the unique museum of life behind the iron curtain.

Marx and Engles

I admire the Hungarians for creating such a place as I would think most of those who experienced these years would have wanted these statues demolished. There was quite a political debate over this at the time, but the decision to keep a select group of the socialistic icons prove the unquestionable years of dictatorship and oppression. Four decades that should not be forgotten. Statues of Marx, Lenin, Stalin, Engles. Statues dedicated to hard working men and women - a chief value in the new order (though with no reality of reward). The Soviet symbol of the hammer and the sickle displayed at the top of a flag pole. Countless soldiers armed for resistance. All of these statues seem to display the realities of force, limitation, control, death, deception... all justified in the quest for an egalitarian utopia.

One of the statues is a set of large bronze boots. These boots were once part of a tall Stalin statue located at Heroes' Square. During the Soviet years Hungary's heroes were hidden, covered in a vain attempt to shift Hungarians loyalties to the leaders of communism. (Compare the photo on the right with photo above)


Known as the "first tear in the Iron Curtain," the boots represent the Hungarian Revolution of 1956, a heroic fight for liberation. Perhaps then Senator John F. Kennedy said it best on the first anniversary of the revolution: "October 23, 1956, is a day that will live forever in the annals of free men and nations. It was a day of courage, conscience and triumph. No other day since history began has shown more clearly the eternal unquenchability of man's desire to be free, whatever the odds against success, whatever the sacrifice required."

The revolt and victory only lasted 12 days before the Soviets regained control, but it was a major turning point in the Cold War.

On that day it only took an hour to topple Stalin's statue. By pick, by saw, by metal cutting blowpipes, thousands of demonstrators set to work on the statue at Heroes' Square. With engine power attached to a thick steel rope placed around Stalin's neck, the statue was pulled down to it's pavement grave, only leaving the boots intact.

With all this in mind, fast forward to this past Easter Sunday.

I was told of a friend's elderly father who watched the event captured on TV with tears running down his face. Over the years he had witnessed the forced marches, the solemn celebrations and the brash speeches declaring something to be that never came - an unrealized hope. But not this Easter. Now in the midst of the Heroes' Square which had witnessed so much pain, he saw 1300 young people dancing freely to lyrics that make reference to Hungarian heroes and a hopeful future for Hungary. But the lyrics don't stop there. They conclude that Jesus is the ultimate freedom - the hope of not only Hungary, but the entire world.

Who would have predicted this experience (click for video) on October 23, 1956?