Top of the World - Yosemite's Half Dome

It kept running through my head as we made the steep climb up the granite steps of Half Dome. A lighthearted song seemed to calm my fears (somewhat). A hiker was navigating the tricky steps as he passed me on his way down. I heard him tell a fellow hiker that being on the top was like standing on top of the world. Immediately the brother-sister singing duo of the 70's came to mind - the Carpenters and their 1973 #1 single hit, Top of the World. Enough so, that when we reached the top exhausted from 8+ miles of hiking, we sat on a rock and I sang the chorus to Dennis.

I'm on the top of the world, looking down on creation, and the only explanation I can find, is the love that I found ever since you've been around, your love put me at the top of the world.

Barely able to get it out, and barely able to smile about it, we were at the top of Half Dome nonetheless – at least as high as I was ever going to climb – 8,800+ feet above sea level (5,000 feet from Yosemite Valley where we camped).

We started out from Curry Village (our camping spot) at 6:00 a.m., then on to the Happy Isles trail-head that took us along the Merced River to the bridge at lower Vernal Falls, connecting us to the Mist Trail. Each of us carried a small backpack filled with healthy snacks (well, except for the Rice Krispie squares), 4 L. of water, lunch, long sleeve dry-fits, gloves for the cable climb, suntan lotion, lip balm, trash bag (carry-in, carry-out), small bottle of bleach for water purification, and a bottle of Ibprophen and Tylenol.

Eight years ago Dennis went to the top for the first time along with Josh, Kari, Mike, Clint, and Julie. Unlike then, Yosemite now requires a permit for hiking to Half Dome (as of January 2012). We didn't make the first lottery (only 225 day-hiking permits and 75 to backpackers daily), but we did make the daily lottery (about 50 daily permits available with a 2-day advance notice due to cancellations or under-use) while in the park.

We took some short video clips (6 total) from top to bottom. Here's the first (where we have great enthusiasm and energy for the hike ahead). This was done mostly for our kids, but feel free to take the time to watch  our adventure (no more than 45 secs each).

With hiking poles in hand, we started our ascent to the steep granite staircase of 600+ steps along Vernal Falls (317 ft). We love our hiking poles. They save on the body - especially the back, knees, and feet. This year's snow fall for Yosemite was only 20% of the norm, so the falls weren't flowing as strong as usual, but still enough to get wet from the mist, and to take caution going up the steps along Vernal Falls.

In 2:15 we made it to the top of Nevada Falls - a 1.5 mile trek of steep, rocky switch-backs from Upper Vernal Falls. The Merced River rushes over 594 feet of granite cliff. There have been people who foolishly go across the protective railing to get closer to the water. Unfortunately, some have met their death by doing so. All it takes is one slip.

We were pretty stoked about our time at this point. Keeping up with four young 20-somethings from Europe gave us a little pride in our stamina.

As we began hiking the 4.4 miles up to Half Dome, we welcomed a break from the steep, rocky switchbacks to the flat, sandy portion of Little Yosemite Valley that follows the Merced River. But, it wasn't long before we began the never-ending and exhausting 2,800 feet climb to the top. Over five hours later we would reach the base of the Sub-dome. At this point, it's a 900-foot-climb to the top via tricky steps and the cables.

The 500 feet of sandy, gravel coated steps are either carved out of the rock or rocks that have been set in place to create a stairs. It was the steep angle - a 45-degree ascent - that concerned me. I could see why the insanity factor for the Half Dome hike is 9 out of 10. Half way up this steep climb (with nothing to grab if you were to fall), I was beginning to wonder if we were being the foolish ones! There's no whoops! on these steps. One slip down the steep granite surface and one is likely to get severely injured or worse. It was at this level I could have turned around right then and there to head back down the mountain. But, we had come so far. So close. I had to keep going.

Once at the top of the Sub-dome, it was time to encounter the cables. There's a bit of a flat surface in the rock at this point, so we sat on a large rock to take in some nourishment, considering that we might need the extra energy to get up the cables. There were people coming down the cables while others were going up. We pulled on our work gloves that would help our hands cling tightly to the cable, mustered up our courage, and began our vertical climb up the 400 feet, 45-degree slope, of smooth granite. 

It took all the upper body strength that I had to pull myself up the steel cable from one 2x4 plank to the next, each about 10 feet apart, or so. I can see why there have been fatalities on Half Dome at this point. Over 20 deaths since the cables made public access to the top in 1919. Really not too bad for almost 100 years. One wrong move, one slip of the foot, one moment of paralyzing fright could mean an uncontrollable slide to the bottom. So, step by step, plank by plank, pull by pull, we made it up to the point where navigating the rock was doable without the help of the cables.

Phew! Once on the top, the views were amazing. We only spent about a half hour on top since it was mid-afternoon and we still had to hike down to the valley before sunset. 

We did it! At the top.

It took us a little over 5 hours to make it back down by way of the John Muir trail, returning to the same spot we began, the lower Vernal Falls, just before dark.

Bodies aching and pure exhaustion setting in, we ordered a pizza from the Curry Village pizza shop. We sat in the food pavilion reliving the day and laughing at ourselves when referring to certain points on the trail. A bed never felt so good that night when we literally crawled in. 

I now consider it a sacrifice on Dennis' part to go up with me eight years later. Having done it, I would never go up again for anybody! :) The thrill of such an accomplishment is amazing, and the beauty of Yosemite is indescribable, but the hike up Half Dome at this stage in my life, I say . . . once and done! But, I will always remember that his love did take me to the top of the world!