I read about this historical spot when checking out the top ten list for Lithuania. It was only 12K from Siauliai, the town I mentioned in my last post that was almost destroyed twice during the World Wars. We just about missed the site. A simple metal sign was posted along the main two-lane road indicating a historical spot, and as I turned around to look I could see the hill of crosses in the distance. We made a u-turn and headed in the direction of the hill, which really is out in the middle of nowhere.
The Hill of Crosses is an amazing sight with rich history. It all starts back in the 19th century when the Poles and Lithuanians were under Russian rule. A peasant uprising against Russian authorities in 1831 was unsuccessful, and since relatives of the victims either could not locate the bodies of the dead or were not allowed to bury the perished, they began to place crosses on the hill as a symbolic remembrance. Another unsuccessful rebellion took place in 1863 when more crosses were placed on the hill. It became a place that represented peace and prayer, and now is a place of pilgrimage for people all over the world.
After War World II when Lithuania was occupied by the Soviets, attempts were made to destroy the hill. Crosses were removed during the early years. The hill was even guarded by the Soviet army and the KGB. Three times - 1961, 1973, 1975 - the Soviets leveled the hill, burning the crosses or turning them into scrap metal, then filling the area with sewage. But, each time it was destroyed, the people would gradually begin to replace the crosses.
It was a place where people could anonymously show their resistance to the regime that oppressed them. In 1978-79 attempts were made to flood the area. It finally was left in peace in 1985.
Today, there are well over 100,000 crosses on this little knob of a hill. Crosses of all sizes, pictures of Jesus, crucifixes, rosaries. On windy days they say the tingling of the metal crosses and rosaries creates a beautiful sound.
It's a place that symbolizes grief and heartache, but also one of faith, love, and sacrifice.
It is a quiet stand against oppression, persecution, and injustice.
The words inscribed on the stone below are from Pope John Paul II, who visited the hill in 1993.
In just about every country we visit in Europe we see the effects of war, whether it be World War I or II or the Balkan war, not to mention those before.
Lithuania was not exempt. It was well worth a short stop at the Hill of Crosses. One I will not forget.
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